Ok, so things are starting to look better… They are better... just had a small moment of doubt (I think it’s allowed, right?) My counter part is the one who took care of me, washing my clothing, making me my meals during my few day visit to Kute, and seeing that I’m comfortable. My supervisor (starting to get on my nerves) took me around the community telling me that when it’s a market day, this is the person I must buy onions from, this is the person I much have all my dresses made by, and where I’m to go to wash my hair (I do believe that I can wash my own hair), telling me to take pictures of certain items in town and introducing me to the committee that I’ll be working with on the ginger production. He’s been asking me every five minutes if I’m ok… (yeah dude I’m fine, so PLEASE stop asking) showing me something and immediately asking for my approval and praise, and saying that this is this and you will like it… end of story I guess.

This is probably where the cultural differences come in, and I just have to be accepting, understanding, put a smile on my face and again work on the 2^nd goal of The Peace Corps… educating the Ghanaians about American culture.

Oh boy…

I have since left the Volta Region... met up with a few other Voltarians in HoHoe and set off on a two day trek across Ghana to get to our technical training in Techiman. Had a breath of fresh air as soon as I was back on my own... no one breathing down my neck telling me how my life should be going... Ahhhh.

At last a fast enough internet connection...

A glorious picture of the landscape of Ghana

Gifty, the little two year old girl from my home-stay.

My family calls her my "black child"

(yes I know it's politically incorrect, but... what can I say)

First impression… well shit, what the hell did I get myself into (pardon the language)?

Second impression… get some sleep Molly and snap out of this… you signed up for this and the world always seems brighter when ample amounts of sleep is to be had.

Third impression… coming as soon as I ‘officially’ move to Kute… and I’m sure it will be much brighter (currently I’m here on a site visit, and will make the grand move in the middle of August).

Ok, stop, wait, don’t think where I moved to is the dumps (do keep in mind though that this is a developing country) and it’s most certainly not paradise either… rather it’s a very, VERY rural community located at the end of the road (very, VERY bad road) bordering with Togo, that has farming as it’s main economic pull for the people.

I guess A) I should think of the positive parts of today and B) rewind a bit in time to give you (the reader) a few reasons why I’m feeling super overwhelmed…

Positive Occurrences of 7/7/10!

1. I had a HOT bucket bath… that’s right it was hot, as in steam was rolling off the body as I scrubbed myself clean… pretty darn amazing!

2. It’s only going to be a half hour bike ride to one of my good friends… thank goodness.

3. I got to eat an apple and watermelon today… so yummy!

4. At least my new home is safe and secure!

5. Jazzercise… including a Ghanaian version of Richard Simmons, Acua’s Barbie Girl on repeat, and a gymnasium built for the early 90’s (although this took place during training it might just be the highlight of the past few days)

Rewinding to the days prior to 7/7/10…

I escaped the isolated (or so I thought) village of Addonkwanta to celebrate the 4th of July with the Omnibus crew, attend counter part training (where we got to meet our counter parts, supervisors and get trained in the working relationship between the CP, supervisor and the PCV) take a site visit to where I’ll be residing for the next two years. And then continue from there to technical training (I’m still in the site visit aspect of this 3 week journey around Ghana).

Training was filled with more long and grueling hours of sitting in more than uncomfortable chairs, going over repeated information about working with Ghanaians, sexual harassment, expectations, policies and procedures of the PC, etc. It was also the first introductions to a few key people in our communities. The people who we will be working closely with on our main projects and it was a chance to sus out what else they envision us to do for the community… (where my first bout of nervousness came in)

Night one I met my counter part… her name is Mary, she is a local farmer in Kute, farming maize and ginger. So far she seems nice, quite, and I hope that she can help me get involved with the women of the community (I have some crafty projects in mind that I’m hoping the women can make and then sell these items in the local tourist communities… but now I getting too far a head… sorry). Found out from her though that I’m learning the wrong language… Well shit… Eve will work (or it’s going to have to for my language test that I’ll be taking in a few weeks), but in Kute they speak Buem… yup yup…

Day two I met my supervisor… my overly pushy, sexist supervisor who envisions that I will be able to solve all the worlds problems… or at least all the problems in Kute. Raymond (his Christian name) gave me my main project… farming ginger, dehydrating it, and then pulverizing it so the spice can be exported. Sounds legit, I’m down with this main project… but then he told me that for my secondary projects (plural there) I’ll be rearing grass cutter, keeping bees, farming snails, and teaching ICT in the senior high school… humm… yes I agree all these projects sound great… but (yes there is always a but…) I’m the one, me, Molly, who gets to assess if I need a secondary project (singular there) and have the time and energy to complete it and make it worth wild for the community. It’s not to say that I can’t and won’t try any and if not all of the options that are listed above, it’s more that he demanded that this is what I’ll be doing… demand being the key word here.

During some of the group work during the two-day training Raymond kept throwing out super sexist comments, such as “the women must be the secretaries, writing is not a job for the man…” and expecting the women to serve him his food… Time to stand up for myself and be the stronger women here and teach the Ghanaians about American culture (2nd goal for the PCV’s) and that women and men are treated equal.

Day four we all set off for the ‘site visit.’ 9 of us with our CP’s, supervisors and all our luggage (we were told to bring everything, and then live the rest of training out of a small backpack, to ensure that all our belongings make it to our villages) loaded into two tro tro’s and set off to the Volta Region. Dropping a few volunteers off along the way and splitting up in Ho Hoe to go our respective ways to our villages I arrived in Kute exhausted, over whelmed and having too many expectations in my head.

Kute is surrounded by fog covered rolling hills, filled with tropical lush vegetation and having a red dirt road as the only way in and out… Taking about an hour to get from Ho Hoe (my closest main city/town) to Kute (I’m stepping further into isolation). It was pouring rain (I’m still hoping that these rains are a blessing) on the trek to Kute… one thought that never crossed my mind was that cars are also not a waterproof place for belongings (I do believe that the majority of the vehicles in Ghana are sent from Europe when they fail inspection… or so it seams.) We pulled my bags out of the car, soaking wet and covered in mud and entered my new room.

Ok so I was told that I was to be provided with two rooms… one for sitting, and one for sleeping, there would be a kitchen or more or less a room to do the cooking in. There would be a latrine, a spot for bathing, and I would have a spot for gardening… I also threw in with my own imagination that I wouldn’t be in the middle of town, I would have a covered porch as most Ghanaian compound do, somewhere to hang a clothes line and I thought there would be some trees near by for shade, hammock hanging and to add a little scenery… Ok lesson learned, get rid of all expectations and take it for what it is.

So I have two rooms off of this building that has rows of rooms for rent… One is my kitchen (or is intended to be) and one is my living rooms, my office, my bedroom… my everything room. There is no porch, no area to sit outside and watch the rain pour or escape the heat. My view out my door is another cement wall that has a goat (live one) bleating and looking at me uncomfortably. The one, lonesome window is small, too small, barley allowing any light in. My latrine is brand spanking new (huge, huge plus), and the area to bucket bath… well being 5’10’’ sucks when they only build walls to cover so much. There is right now no door, but I requested that one be put in (don’t think I’m being to selfish here, but I really don’t feel comfortable bathing when people can just watch me.)

My supervisor said that he will get me a small refrigerator (not that necessary, but sweet if it really happens), I will have a propane stove, and I’m going to get some furniture made so I can actually make this room my new home… yep its going to happen. My supervisor seems to think that he knows what else I need… “Molly you will have carpet, and you don’t need that kind of table, you need this one so you can study mushroom farming. Your book self will… aw yes, it will have three shelves… one for mushroom farming, one for bee keeping, and the other for rearing grass cutter” (because I’m overloaded with books on these topics…and I need a place to store them…? I don’t know)

Kute seems to be swamped with mud (partially because it just poured rain). I was introduced to the chief, and started meeting other members of the village. Was given a dog, well a puppy rather, and I didn’t have the guts to say no. So name ideas anyone? Started getting marriage proposals again… just have to get it stated to the village that I have a boyfriend, I’m married or whatever they want to hear... I’m not here for marriage, end of story. And the best one was “where is all the money that you are bring to this village?” (Like I’m coming in with bags filled with Ghana Cedi??) Well… I’m not here to bring money; I’m here to help generate projects that in turn will generate more of a profit for the community. I’m here to help the farmer’s farm more efficiently, to get more of a yield from their crops, make it more nutritious, and come up with some alternative livelihood projects that can generate the profit, help in the health clinic, water sanitation and HIV/AIDS education, possibly work in the schools, start community gardens… that’s where the money is. (In that line of thought though, if anyone has any close connections with fair trade import shops at home and wants hand crafted and recycled items, hand made clothing and jewelry we should talk…)

Dinner was super awkward as my supervisor felt the need to watch me eat, observing as I picked apart the fish to remove the bones, and to see how much I ate. I thought at first that we would be sharing a meal… oh no, I’m just here for the observation… watch the white girl, see how she does it. Luckily after I ate my supervisor said he had to go… thank goodness, but I was left with my counter part… she gave me my bath water (it was hot… first hot bath in over a month) and then watched as I took my bucket bath. I tried to hang a cloth to block the door, but yeah… 5’ 10’’ and with there being no door… awkward (glad the door is the first thing to be getting built).

Welcome to Kute Molly!

As you can tell, internet is hard for me to come by during training... It's about an hour round trip from my isolated village to New Tafo where internet is to be found, and back. With classes getting out around 5 each day in Addonkwanta and the last taxi to get back to Addonkwanta leaves at 5:45, escaping isolation to connect with the world is rather hard.
And uploading pictures is even more frustrating... so please keep in mind that photos will be coming and I'll keep writing blog postings and post them as soon as I can get to internet.

The moment of truth is about to take place... I get to visit my site... my new home... where I'll be spending the next two years...

Drum roll please... and this blog posting is to be continued...

Going on one month in Ghana… Congrats Molly… (big pat on the back)... and congrats to all the other PCT's that have also made it though the first month...

Happy 4th of July!

Ghana just lost the their last game in the world cup against Uruguay, causing them to be eliminated… the people here are soooooooo devastated. (On a side note though… Germany is doing extremely well und ich bin sehr sehr schtolz auf deutschland!)

Everyday is surprisingly (actually not really) a cultural experience – my ‘brother’ killed a chicken today (video to come), I’m learning to carry water on my head (yes that is how anything and everything is transported… via the head), trying to get the ‘right hand only’ rule down (harder than you would expect… and thank goodness I not a lefty), realizing that no matter where I go, it will take 20 times longer than expected due to the fact that I have to greet everyone (and they get super offended if I don’t stop and tell them what my name is, where I’m from, where I’m going, who I’m staying with, and need be, my US parents name), grasping ‘bucket bathing’ (rather enjoyable actually, pouring cold water all over when it’s hotter than all get out), understanding that bed time is roughly 8pm and the day starts at 4:30 or 5 (I really try to push that back to about 6), and accepting the slower pace of life (it’s actually pretty darn amazing here)!

Football (no not American Football, but soccer)… the game of choice for the kids, adults, and obronies (us white folk)… is being played at any given time. Us obronies join in at any possible moment showing off our pathetic football skills, knowing that the kids are taking it easy when we play with… saying that the goals they score on us don’t count, giving us a goal kick when they ‘fouled’ and passing the ball over just to give us a moment of glory in game… basically Americans need to work on their football game.

So having Ghana in the world cup is rather an exciting topic right now. And the fact that Ghana beat the US… well lets just say that Ghana is super pumped. Walking around town now the Ghanaians are proud to point out that the score was 2 to 1 Ghana… (not that I didn’t already know that)

Almost every car that I’ve seen driving around has a Ghana flag attached to it, proudly supporting their country. People in Addonkwanta have been carrying around a portable radio just to catch the games and/or huddling around the one public TV to watch... (yes one public TV)

Walking through my village listening to the people watch the games is almost just as good as watching any of the football games on TV. Throughout the town you can hear as Ghana takes over the ball, when they score, when the other team takes the ball, and if they score, if a ref made a bad call, when someone got hurt and so on. The moans, booing cheering, clapping, hooting and hollering… well it’s all pretty comical.

Ghana is the third African team to get this far in the World Cup, giving Ghana a good name and making this country super proud. If they win the next game against Uruguay then they will be the first African team to have made it that far! Go Black Stars!

Right now two hours of the day are spent on Agro-Forestry and Alternative Livelihood Facilitating training. (Such a large title, when none of us going into this had any idea what it truly meant.) In Ghana soil erosion, and depleted nutrient content of the soil are two huge factors effecting the Environment here. Ghanaians are also cutting down precious trees to replace them with crops or burn for fuel. So in part, all the Peace Corps Environment Volunteers were brought in to help educate the Ghanaians on how to rebuild their soil, stop soil erosion, plant crops that can grow in the forests, education of trees that have nutritional leaves to give more nutrients to the nutritiously deprived children, possibly educated Ghanaians on more efficient ways to grow their own crops, help build more fuel efficient stoves that use less wood, and come up with any other project that is considered ‘Alternative Livelihood’ … such as food storage and latrine composting.

Training started off with planting our own tree nursery, putting in a garden, and building a fuel-efficient stove. At our ‘nursery’ (I use the word ‘nursery’ lightly, because there are no greenhouses and no irrigation, rather some bags filled with soil, a seed placed somewhere in there, put in a line and then watered… hummmm, but no worries we were told that this is how all trees in Ghana are started…) we have three different kinds of trees growing (I do hope that they actually grow). Our group of 15 divided and conquered as some rebuilt the fence around the ‘nursery,’ some filled the bags with soil and others planted the seeds.

Word spread throughout the village like wildfire that all the ‘obronis’ were hard at work. The crowds started gathering around making us feel like we were the newest exhibit at the Addonkwanta Zoo, pointing and laughing as we tried using a machete… (I guess we were a sight to see). The little kids were trying to show us the right way to dig a hole, weed, and prep the soil all with using a machete… (pretty sweet)

Us environment kids (the other sectors in PC are already calling us dirty hippies) started our garden next… turning the soil, building three raised beds and then planting the seeds. We planted tomatoes, peppers, and okra. In Ghana there is a fear of animals coming in and eating the seeds as well as the soil drying out… so we covered our beds with palm tree branches, gave them a good drink and now we are letting nature do its part… we’ll see what happens.